Buying a car long distance [Archive] (2024)

MX-5 Miata Forum > All Miatas > Pricing and Dealer Discussion > Buying a car long distance

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MasterOfSparks

19th April 2014, 00:38

I found this 97 Black Miata with 87k miles in Raytown MO from a private owner for $6300. It looks great and the price is right.

Sure its half way across the country but my kids live in Joplin. So I figured if we made the deal I could fly in and buy the car and drive down for a visit. Sure its a looooong drive home to Vancouver WA but I could take a few days and enjoy the trip. He sends me photos and the vin # for Carfax.

But before I spent the $40 to check Carfax I asked him if he would be willing to take the car to a Miata shop for an inspection BEFORE I fly half way across the country. I told him if the mechanic said everything was in order I would send a cash deposit and be out in a few days to get it. For some stupid reason he insists that he can't get the car inspected unless I fly there first to see it. Apparently he thinks there's some kind of scam where I'm going to pay to have his car inspected and then send him a bunch of money.

Was this an unreasonable request on my part? Or might this be indicative of the reason a 97 Miata with 85k mi for $6300 is still unsold after a MONTH on Craigslist?

Nice car tho...

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/4368300829.html

CTt3MX5

19th April 2014, 00:52

Your request is not unreasonable but I can understand his comprehension with all of the scammers out there. What Miata shop was he taking it to for inspection? Maybe you can call them direct and they can send a tech to his home to check it out? If so, he may be more willing to have them take it for a drive back to their shop to complete the inspection. If they won't, what was the cost? You could opt for a PPI. I used AIM Mobile Inspections just recently before I flew form PA to FL to buy my Miata. Cost was $129 and they sent me a full report with grade of the car along with 30 or so pics. Only downside was since they do the inspection at the owners residence, business they typically don't have access to a lift.

From what I can tell in the pics, it looks nice but before I shelled out any money for an inspection I'd nicely ask the seller for more pics of the rockers to check for rust and the engine bay. In doing so, you'll get a better feel on if it's worth paying for the inspection and he should feel more at ease at agreeing to it seeing that you are a serious buyer.

Good Luck!

tom4416

19th April 2014, 01:14

Did you offer to have the inspection performed at your expense and with you sending him the money for it upfront (or giving the dealership your credit card to bill it to)? I wouldn't spent $150-$200 for an inspection unless I had a serious buyer which means they're spending the money and not me. If you did offer and he still refuses, then keep looking IMHO. It's not a steal BTW, decent deal but not a lock. Even with the relatively low miles, plan on $1500 to get it into needs nothing condition although I think you were going to do suspension anyway so had already budgeted for that.

MasterOfSparks

19th April 2014, 02:26

I made is clear several times that I would pay all expenses. Worst case he gets a free car inspection. He just says he isn't going to jump through any hoops. I should come see him when I'm in town in 2 months if he still has it. So I won't be making a special trip to get it. Oh well. I prefer to do business with a person who will make reasonable accommodations. Chalk it up as a learning experience. If only I could learn to love red, lol.

The search continues...

mrmustang

19th April 2014, 06:52

I made is clear several times that I would pay all expenses. Worst case he gets a free car inspection. He just says he isn't going to jump through any hoops. I should come see him when I'm in town in 2 months if he still has it. So I won't be making a special trip to get it. Oh well. I prefer to do business with a person who will make reasonable accommodations. Chalk it up as a learning experience. If only I could learn to love red, lol.

The search continues...

If you are not flying out, a third party, pre purchase inspection (PPI) is always suggested. However, his location may be an issue, so sending an inspection company to his location is most likely what he would agree to. If he does not agree to the inspection, walk away from the car as he is hiding something.

Bill S.

scottns

19th April 2014, 08:17

Car seems high to me anyways... Maybe $5000ish...?

scottns

19th April 2014, 08:32

How about this one? Lot closer to you and looks well maintained.

http://pullman.craigslist.org/cto/4421779128.html

MasterOfSparks

19th April 2014, 17:25

But... but... scottns I want a TRIPLE BLACK one like yours!

Well... not exactly like yours. But definitely triple black! That's why I have to widen my search area.

Good idea on the mobile inspection service, gentlemen. I'll look into that on Monday.

KeeperNC

19th April 2014, 18:12

Sparky, here's what I did: offered to not only pay for the PPI, but also offered to pay for an oil change while the car was at the shop. That gave my seller an extra motivation - if I walked, she at least got a free oil change for her time.

And the local Mazda dealership, in return for my business, also sent me a fresh set of pictures of the car while it was up on the lift - was definitely worth my while.

Of course, I had a very good vibe that I was going to be buying the car, so really, that extra touch just ended up making sure the car was good and fresh for my long drive home. But I did the same with my OTM purchase (also a fly-in, drive-out buy). In both cases, it sent a strong signal to the seller that I was a very serious buyer, for really not much money at all.

Good luck! :thumbs:

jprocknow

19th April 2014, 20:46

I just did this with the car I picked up today. Called my chosen shop, told them the story, then called the dealer and told him to drop it off. Shop charged me $70 and gave me an itemized list of things it needed with relative costs for them to do it. Dealer was told I was taking care of all costs, shop called me when they were done and I dealt with them.
If seller can't make time to sell it, he's not ready to sell it. If you've made your case as a serious buyer, that's all you can do. Some are skeptical and some don't really want to "sell" the car. Nothing you can do.

eddielasvegas

19th April 2014, 23:04

Comparing what a dealer can do, or will do (sell their mother comes to mind), is not the same as comparing what a private seller can or will do.

Most PPI's are done M-F so me getting one done for a buyer involves such things as time off work, not having a car while PPI is done and the list goes on.

I have bought and sold a number of cars on Clist but if it requires more than a couple hours away from work, I'll find another buyer.

Eddie

I just did this with the car I picked up today. Called my chosen shop, told them the story, then called the dealer and told him to drop it off. Shop charged me $70 and gave me an itemized list of things it needed with relative costs for them to do it. Dealer was told I was taking care of all costs, shop called me when they were done and I dealt with them.
If seller can't make time to sell it, he's not ready to sell it. If you've made your case as a serious buyer, that's all you can do. Some are skeptical and some don't really want to "sell" the car. Nothing you can do.

MasterOfSparks

20th April 2014, 02:54

Comparing what a dealer can do, or will do (sell their mother comes to mind), is not the same as comparing what a private seller can or will do.

Most PPI's are done M-F so me getting one done for a buyer involves such things as time off work, not having a car while PPI is done and the list goes on.

I have bought and sold a number of cars on Clist but if it requires more than a couple hours away from work, I'll find another buyer.

Eddie

Have you purchased any out of town vehicles on CL eddie? Or sold to any oot buyers? If so how has that worked for you in the past?

I guess I wasn't really thinking about it taking anyone hours for an inspection. But I haven't done this before. I was thinking it would be more like Jiffy lube or something. In fact something like that would maybe work. Send him down to Jiffy Lube for an oil change at my expense. And while he's down there hand the phone to the JL rep and he can tell me what the car needs and make sure the title is in hand. In fact with more people buying from ebay and such JL might oughta offer a service like that.

But then again I'm crazy so what do I know?

kunney

20th April 2014, 03:08

Use carchex. Get better photos and peace of mind and the guy doesn't have to do jack.

tomtomc

20th April 2014, 05:35

i think one thing that is missing in this dialog is that in the case of a popular car, the seller doesn't have to deal with the demands of a fussy out-of-town seller - if the price is right a local buyer will come along soon enough... Then the car can be shown, the deal negotiated, and title transfered with minimal hassle and no threat of "misrepresentation" hanging over anyone's head.

scottns

20th April 2014, 08:15

But... but... scottns I want a TRIPLE BLACK one like yours!

Well... not exactly like yours. But definitely triple black! That's why I have to widen my search area.

Good idea on the mobile inspection service, gentlemen. I'll look into that on Monday.

I'll sell you mine for 10k :rofl: The car you were looking at was over priced anyways.... I will keep a look out on the east coast for you but that's probably too much of a long haul....

mrmustang

20th April 2014, 08:19

Have you purchased any out of town Send him down to Jiffy Lube for an oil change at my expense. And while he's down there hand the phone to the JL rep and he can tell me what the car needs and make sure the title is in hand. In fact with more people buying from ebay and such JL might oughta offer a service like that.

Do you really want to have the car inspected by someone that is not a mechanic :rolleyes:

At least at a dealership you get a trained mechanic to look over the car for you.

Then again, there are third party inspection companies you can hire that will go out to the sellers home and inspect it there. As a seasoned long distance buyer, that is what I would suggest you do, a simple Google search will snare you several reputable companies in the area the car is in.

Bill S.

twisties

20th April 2014, 10:51

Here's one you may not have seen. 1994, 55k, black/black, $7k, at a dealer. Looks like an A pkg with AC. Not cheap, but surely they've got some flex in that price. Waaaay over in east TN.

http://m.autotrader.com/vdp.html?id=370289279

Unusualdesigner

20th April 2014, 11:15

At least at a dealership you get a trained mechanic to look over the car for you.

And how many dealerships have guys that have ever worked on an NA? -few and far between.

mrmustang

20th April 2014, 11:33

And how many dealerships have guys that have ever worked on an NA? -few and far between.

Yet they are still trained to look for problems...Some may even own and race Miatas......

Ever see the quality of employees (besides managers) that a quick lube place has? :rolleyes:

Bill S.

chacend

20th April 2014, 12:01

Comparing what a dealer can do, or will do (sell their mother comes to mind), is not the same as comparing what a private seller can or will do.

Most PPI's are done M-F so me getting one done for a buyer involves such things as time off work, not having a car while PPI is done and the list goes on.

I have bought and sold a number of cars on Clist but if it requires more than a couple hours away from work, I'll find another buyer.

Eddie

In my opinion, your perspective would only matter if you are either offering a great deal that has people chomping at the bit or if you didn't care how long it took to sell. If on the other hand you are trying to get top dollar for your car it may not come quickly or from the local area. If I was trying to get every dollar out of the car I would be more than willing to get a PPI done within reason. In fact if I was trying to maximize profit, I would probably get a PPI done ahead of time at a local Mazda dealer to provide to prospective buyers along with an auto check/Carfax.

Unusualdesigner

20th April 2014, 12:52

Yet they are still trained to look for problems...Some may even own and race Miatas......Ever see the quality of employees (besides managers) that a quick lube place has? :rolleyes:Bill S.
No argument with the knuckle draggers at the quick oil change places... :rofl:

Sure, any competent mechanic can inspect almost any car and come up with reasonable estimate of things that are obvious. However, there are quite a few areas in Miatas that are not obvious to most mechanics unless they have worked on them beforehand.

rkjjeep

20th April 2014, 14:59

Yet they are still trained to look for problems...Some may even own and race Miatas......

Ever see the quality of employees (besides managers) that a quick lube place has? :rolleyes:

Bill S.

I agree that MOST quick lube places don't have great mechanics but SOME do. I was driving my Miata back from FL to MI and wanted an oil change. I called around until I found a place nearby that would let me do the work. Great people, all certified, all car guys, talked my ear off about their cars. Someplace in GA....I'll try to look up the name.

agp1956

20th April 2014, 17:57

Master of Sparks:
Another option in this saga would be a person local to the car to go take a look at it for you. The car shows two different phone numbers - one could be your Raytown number as mentioned, and the other is a Kansas area code that is outside the Kansas City metro area. There are a couple of Miata groups in the KC Metro area. Heartland Miata Club of Greater Kansas City is the larger of the two.
I live in a nearby suburb (Blue Springs) and looked a couple of NA's, a BMW Z3, and an NB1 before buying my NB2 last fall.....

MasterOfSparks

20th April 2014, 20:22

No argument with the knuckle draggers at the quick oil change places... :rofl:

Sure, any competent mechanic can inspect almost any car and come up with reasonable estimate of things that are obvious. However, there are quite a few areas in Miatas that are not obvious to most mechanics unless they have worked on them beforehand.

The most I would expect from a lube shop is to tell me if there are any obvious problems and how the fluids look. But that's better than nothing. And less of an imposition than a full PPI. A qualified inspector would of course be way better.

Master of Sparks:
Another option in this saga would be a person local to the car to go take a look at it for you. The car shows two different phone numbers - one could be your Raytown number as mentioned, and the other is a Kansas area code that is outside the Kansas City metro area. There are a couple of Miata groups in the KC Metro area. Heartland Miata Club of Greater Kansas City is the larger of the two.
I live in a nearby suburb (Blue Springs) and looked a couple of NA's, a BMW Z3, and an NB1 before buying my NB2 last fall.....

Great idea agp1956! I'm losing interest in that particular one given the price and such. But if I spot another one out your way I could make it worth your while to take a drive. Like wise if I can be of any assistance to anyone in the Portland area let me know. But I am no mechanic.

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Buying a car long distance [Archive] (2024)

FAQs

What is Dave Ramsey's rule for buying a car? ›

Here's the deal: The car you can afford is the car you can pay for in cash. And as a general rule, the total value of all your vehicles combined shouldn't be more than half your annual income.

Is buying a car with 100K miles bad? ›

Reliability was more questionable then, and many vehicle odometers didn't even reach six figures, never mind driving beyond that milestone. Today, however, most cars are engineered to drive well past 100,000 miles, which means buying a high-mileage car can lead to a great deal.

At what mileage should a car be replaced? ›

How many miles does a car last? A conventional car can last for 200,000 miles. Some well-maintained car models will reach 300,000 or more miles total.

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You're always going to be better off buying used and paying up front instead of going for the shiny new model that some overcaffeinated car salesman is trying to get you to borrow money for.”

What is the 20% rule when buying a car? ›

A down payment on a car is money you pay up front to decrease the amount you need to borrow when buying a car. The 20/4/10 rule encourages you to put down at least 20% of the total price of your vehicle, which will lower the overall amount you borrow and reduce the interest you'll pay over the life of the loan.

What mileage is too high for a used car? ›

There's no absolute number of miles that is considered too high for a used car. But consider 200,000 as an upper limit, a threshold where even modern cars begin to succumb to the years of wear and tear.

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It can be somewhat risky to buy a vehicle that has racked up more than 100,000 miles. Even if it's well-maintained and has about 100,000 miles left in it, such a car is already past its prime. Generally, vehicles are likely to start experiencing problems after the 100,000-mile mark.

How many miles is too many for a new car? ›

The general rule, though, is that anything under 200 miles is acceptable for a new car. That allows enough capacity for transport from the shipping port or between dealerships if the car is sent to a new showroom. It's also unlikely that the car would suffer any technical issues with fewer than 200 miles.

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Jun 15, 2023

What mileage do engines last? ›

How many miles can an engine last? – Generally speaking, most modern cars last more than 200, 000 miles without any important issues, in case of good maintenance. We know that, on average, a person drives 10,000-20,000 miles per year, which means the lifecycle of automobiles is approximately 15 years.

What mileage is too low for a used car? ›

The average car gets in 10,000 to 12,000 miles per year, so used cars with an annual average lower than that can be considered as having good mileage. Simply divide the odometer number by the car's age in years to determine it's annual average.

Does car age or mileage matter more? ›

In conclusion, while it's a good idea to consider both the age of a vehicle and the mileage on the odometer, how it was maintained is the key. A 10 year old car with 100,000 miles may have received more maintenance and upkeep then a 5 year-old car with 50,000 miles.

Can a 20 year old car be reliable? ›

Potential Longevity: A well-maintained 20-year-old car with low mileage may still have many miles left in its tank. If the vehicle has been stored properly and received regular maintenance, it could provide reliable transportation for several more years.

What is the average new car payment in America Dave Ramsey? ›

Ramsey took people to task for the financial hole they put themselves in as they contend with massive car payments. "You've got a car payment bigger than your house payment. The average car payment in America now is $499 — that's suspiciously like 500 bucks," he said.

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What is the money guy rule for buying a car? ›

The 20/3/8 rule stand for:

20% down. Finance no longer than 3 years. Total car payment is no more than 8% of gross income.

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